Tuesday, March 25, 2025

In Memoriam: The Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Fire

Today marks the 114th anniversary of the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory fire, the deadliest disaster in New York City history prior to the September 11th attacks.

Last Tuesday, I attended a lecture at the Jefferson Market Library put on by Village Preservation and the Remember the Triangle Fire Coalition. Dr. Daniel Levinson Wilk, Associate Professor of American History at FIT and board member of the Coalition, told the story of the factory, the fire, the survivors, and those who perished.

Dr. Wilk began by explaining the history of ready-made clothing. Prior to the late 1800’s, all clothing was handmade and tailored to a person’s specific size and measurements. The market for standard sized garments began with sailors and slaves, with a significant turning point during the Civil War, when uniforms were mass manufactured for soldiers. One of the first methods for the mass production of clothing in New York City was through a process called “outwork,” wherein a specific part of, say, a shirt, was brought, en masse, to the home of a seamstress in her tenement apartment. She may be responsible for stitching one single seam on one hundred of the same item, then the garments were picked up and brought to another apartment to be handled by another seamstress, and so on and so forth until the garments were complete. (A lot of running around.)

When the original factories were built, immigrant seamstresses had to carry their own sewing machines to and from the factories each day, until such time as more efficient processes were invented and installed. The floors of garment factories were crowded, messy, and safety standards as we know them today were non-existent; there was no OSHA. The Triangle Shirtwaist Factory occupied the top three floors (eight, nine, and ten) of the former Asch building, now called the Brown building. It is suspected that the fire started on the eighth floor from someone accidentally igniting a fabric scrap pile with a cigarette butt. As the fire spread, the workers on the eighth floor were able to escape through the elevator and the stairs, and the workers on the tenth floor were able to escape via the roof. The workers on the ninth floor, however, were trapped. The doors to the exits were locked, and after sheltering under their work benches and attempting to break down the doors, some made it out to the fire escape that then collapsed and they plummeted to the street below. Others jumped from the windows, falling so hard they crashed through the sidewalk below. 146 people, 123 of them recent Italian and Jewish immigrant women and girls, most aged 14 to 23, lost their lives…all in the space of fifteen minutes.

As mentioned, there were no safety standards for factories at that time. Sprinklers were available but very expensive to retrofit, and the ownership of Blank and Harris were as cheap as they come. After so many people lost their lives, Blank and Harris were acquitted of any wrongdoing, collected on the hundreds of life insurance policies they had quietly taken out on their employees, and never offered a dime to the bereaved families.

As a direct result of this tragedy, three major safety standards were put in place. First, all floors of factories had to install illuminated exit signs over every exit. Second, smoking of any kind was banned from factory floors. And third, all doors must open outward to prevent a bottleneck in the event of an emergency. This disaster was also one of the catalysts for the labor movement; Frances Perkins, workers-rights advocate and the fourth US Secretary of Labor (1933-1945 under FDR), was one of the bystanders who watched workers plummet to their deaths from the fire.

When Dr. Wilk finished speaking, other members of the Coalition talked about their work for the recently installed memorial at the Brown building. A group effort by descendants of the victims of the fire or others who felt connected to the tragedy in some way were invited to sew together a 300-foot-long ribbon, The Collective Ribbon, made from 400 pieces of fabric along with a description of their personal connection. This Ribbon was then etched onto metal, which has been installed on the southeast corner of the building, all the way to the 10th floor. The bottom part of the Ribbon hangs horizontally over black glass, in which the names of all the victims have been carved out and can be read from below in the reflection on the glass. I perused the photographs the Coalition had brought with them, then walked over to see the installation myself after the event was finished.


Friday, February 28, 2025

Nine Years Roaming

For the first time in many years, winter has actually felt like proper winter. Bundled up all the time, fingers painfully numb from frequently removing gloves to take photos, my roaming outings have been few and far between. However, here in New York, we're starting to see some slightly less frigid days, so I'm hoping to get outside more soon.

Because the true anniversary of my project is on Leap Day, I have two days to choose from on non-Leap Years to celebrate and take stock of where I've been and what I've done. With that in mind, the following photos offer a brief glimpse of neighborhoods I've roamed in the last few months. 

Upper West Side




Astoria



East Village



Friday, January 31, 2025

In Focus: Robert Doisneau

If you have been following this blog, it’s clear I have a deep affection for the street photographers of last century. The fervent reverence for these artists stems from a mix of both admiration of the craft and nostalgia for bygone eras. 

I just finished reading a biography of pre-Kennedy Jackie Bouvier (Camera Girl: The Coming of Age of Jackie Bouvier Kennedy by Carl Sferrazza Anthony) that covered 1949-1953, which included the tail end of her time in college, her brief stint abroad in Paris, and her also brief career as a photographer and columnist for the now-defunct Washington Times-Herald. Typically not one for biographies, I did enjoy this one, and found myself curious what Paris in the early 50’s may have looked like when she visited. 

This is where Robert Doisneau comes in. 

Doisneau began photographing at an early age, then worked as a freelance street photographer before his time in World War II documenting the French Resistance. His career as a photographer really started to blossom after the war, when he again turned his photographic eye to the streets of Paris. A contemporary of Henri Cartier-Bresson, Doisneau was also a worshipper at the altar of the “decisive moment.” While his portfolio is large and sprawling, the most striking of his images are those where he was at the right place at the right time. 

The marvels of daily life are so exciting; no movie director can arrange the unexpected that you find in the street. 

— Robert Doisneau

Two ladies in their Sunday best, rue de Buci, Paris, Sixth Arrondissement, Sunday, March 22, 1953

Maurice Baquet by the steps at rue Vilin, Paris, Twentieth Arrondissement, 1957

Le Garde et les Ballons, 1946

While I was flipping through Robert Doisneau: A Photographer’s Life, the giant tome I picked up at the Strand several years ago, I came across the following photo of Doisneau’s friend Robert Giraud on a rooftop holding a cat all trussed up in what appeared to be a cat-sized straight jacket. Entitled “Thief of Cats,” I believed at first that Giraud was simply removing the feline from the rooftop after having captured it. When I read the caption, I discovered I could not have been more wrong.

Robert Giraud, "thief of cats," 1954
 

“Bob” Giraud with cat-catching equipment on the rooftop of the Hôtel de Ville, Paris, Fourth Arrondissement. “It was not long after the Occupation. The scarcity of furs and coal gave birth to a new industry – the exploitation of cat fur. The pelts of this carnivore were, it seems, charged with electricity, possessing the power to keep you warm at relatively modest cost, to cure rheumatism. Advertising slogans confirmed it. (Robert Giraud, Le Vin des rues, 1955).

While heartbreaking to know house cats were being hunted for their coats, it is certainly a poignant commentary on the state of post-war Europe and the means by which people got by. Though not all dismal, there are also photos of joy, especially when he was photographing children in the streets, before, during, and after the war.

Le remorqueur, 1943

Danse à la fontaine, Latin Quarter, Paris, Fifth Arrondissement, 1947

I’m sure the Paris that Miss Bouvier experienced was an interesting juxtaposition of both ends of the post-war spectrum and her own privileged means. So enthralled was she with the people she met and the places she visited, she very nearly did not return to the US to finish college. Through exploration of Doisneau’s work I have gained a better understanding of that era of Paris, and for the first time, I feel a kinship with Jackie: I did not want to return to the US when I visited Paris either.